Bangkok is an exercise of presence
I hold distant memories of Bangkok and recalling them feels like unearthing a different lifetime or confusing false memories with real ones.
For instance, I kept asking myself: did I ever spend time in Silom with filmmaker Charliebebs Gohetia? Or did I just obsess with his film I Love You. Thank You (partly shot in Bangkok) a little too much? Was I ever really in Bangkok? Did I really go onboard a boat down the Chao Phraya River for dinner? Take a leisurely walk and shop in Asiatique? Fly out of my seat after a tuk-tuk driver slammed on the brakes? My recollection is vague.
On a recent trip, Bangkok demanded my full attention. Less phone time. No mind-wandering. Missing out on the present moment felt like being robbed of the travel experience.
Bangkok wanted me to be fully immersed in the Thai New Year, which was my main agenda.
Immersing in the waterfights
Water is a key element in the traditional Thai New Year celebration called Songkran. In 2023, UNESCO included Songkran in the list of intangible cultural heritage.
According to UNESCO, “Pouring water is a significant act during Songkran, symbolizing cleansing, reverence and good fortune.”
Today, this act has evolved into a form of merrymaking and street revelry. Locals and tourists alike are seen on the streets with buckets and water guns, cooling each other off in the hottest time of the year.
I was determined to participate in the experience in the Silom area where my hostel was conveniently located but I didn’t know how to get things started.
The festivity is intuitive, I learned. In Silom, the street (from Silom Metro Station until the ITF Tower near the Nararom Junction) was closed starting Sunday April 12 and a one way foot traffic was implemented. A full experience of Songkran here had to involve walking a total of two kilometers for one lap.
Every corner revealed surprises: bursts of laughter, selfies with giddy partygoers, a splash of water from locals selling watergun refills for five baht, watergun duels, live concerts, muscular shirtless guys, corporate giveaways like flipflops, sunscreen, and phone pouches, and ice cold drinks. Getting into the fun didn’t need any planning, really. All that was required of me was to show up. I did so on a Monday and that was when the celebration peaked.
Citing data from the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration, the Bangkok Post reported that Silom Road was swarmed by 652,974 people from April 10-15. Wild.
Rediscovering the temple run experience
Visiting temples was no longer on my to-do list for this trip. I wanted to just eat a bunch of local food and drown on Thai milk tea. However, one key element to recent temple visit experiences (as shown in TikTok) made me rethink my decision: professional photography.
In 2026, it is not enough to just visit a temple, reflect about life and admire Thai history, culture and religion. It is also imperative that this experience be captured by a commissioned lensman. What I found entertaining was the costume rental. I could dress up as Thai and look like I live in royalty for half a day.
That’s exactly what my travel buddies and I did. We headed to a costume shop near Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) to get fully made up and met with Joe, our booked photographer for the day.
The exercise was simple: follow his cues and pose in specific spots of the 18th-century Buddhist temple.
I was trained by the Davao heat to endure Bangkok’s heat; this made the activity bearable. The costumes weren’t exactly comfortable but they were beautiful and fascinating. Key pieces in a traditional Thai ensemble for men are a loincloth (chong kraben) to sort of puff up the pants and a five-button jacket (Raj pattern) that had a design that goes back to the late 19th century. The look is finished with a sash (sabai). All had golden embroidery and appliques that glimmered against the sunlight. I wasn’t going to be under the heat forever and so I put on my best smile. Joe, whose body of work can be seen in social media in his page called 322’s World, captured awe-inspiring photos of us and I honestly didn’t think I’d look so dignified while being cooked at noontime.
On some moments, the heat felt a little too much to bear; the humidity, suffocating. But Bangkok knows how to take care of its people. Interconnected and shaded sidewalks provided ample cool and convenience for residents and tourists on foot. But I couldn’t discount the fact that it was scorching during our visit. Even locals would tell me: it’s, too, hot!
On April 6, just two days before my trip, the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration warned that the city’s heat index had reached a “dangerous” level. The maximum heat index recorded for the day was within the 42 C to 51.9 C range, which is classified as “dangerous.”
Feel all the feelings
The current tourism slogan of Thailand featuring Thai rapper and singer Lisa strikes me hard in the face.
“Feel all the feelings” is a painfully accurate way to describe a multitude of feelings in the city: the heat that literally bites my skin; the humidity that stops me in my tracks immediately after I exit an airconditioned building; the rapid change in temperature as soon as I enter an airconditioned building or the train; the mellow caress of herbs to my nose in the food markets; the sight of tall buildings and expansive cultural architecture that short circuits my brain; the Bolt motorcycle rides that defy speed limits; the Thai conversations that I don’t understand; the distinct 7 Eleven door entrance beep; the melodic train announcement “สถานีต่à¸à¹„ป” (sà -thãa-nii tòr-pay) that signals my next stop; the kiss of a stranger in G.O.D.; the dizzying array of toys and treats and decor in Pop Mart; the party of spice and flavors in a pad kaprao; the sweet, sweet comforts provided by a ChaTraMue Thai tea on ice.
Rediscovering Bangkok in the sweltering April was a visceral experience. Some moments were a little too overstimulating but that’s just the city’s way of telling me: welcome back.
(Jesse is still in Bangkok in spirit and doomscrolling on Instagram @thegamejay)
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